Do as I Say, Not as I Do: Bumbling My Way Through Miyazaki
Do as I Say, Not as I Do
Bumbling my way through Japan. During COVID. With minimal language skills. And small children.
The COVID Chapter
I mentioned before that being an expat in Japan means essentially living in a bubble. And if you are an English speaker raising kids in Japan, there is a 99% chance that you're familiar with The Tokyo Chapter, a lovely blog written by a mom (or "mum," as she would say) of two who chronicles living and traveling in Japan with kids. She has many excellent suggestions and itineraries, of which I have used many.
When I reflect on her (pre-pandemic) travel experiences, and compare them to my family's post-2020, I have to laugh. (Sometimes to stop myself from crying.) If The Tokyo Chapter is the guide on what to do in Tokyo and Japan, consider my experiences as the opposite—and learn from my mistakes.
The COVID factor remains a key aspect of travel in Japan, at least for now. As of this writing, Japan’s prime minister has declared borders will reopen to foreign tourists on October 11, 2022, after two-and-a-half years. As a resident traveling within the country during those years, I have encountered rules, closures, and expectations that have made getting along in a country with an already complex set of societal norms all the more complicated. One thing I’ve learned: change does not happen overnight in Japan—so I expect many of these confusing COVID policies to remain in place. Pack your mask, some patience, and a sense of humor.
A Fall Trip to Miyazaki
In October 2021, my family and I took a trip to Miyazaki. Located on the southern island of Kyushu, it may sound familiar because it shares a name with famous animator Hayao Miyazaki, and because it has recently been hit hard by Typhoon Nanmadol. (Thankfully, casualties appear to be minimal.) According to my husband, Miyazaki is also a popular spring training destination for sports teams. Indeed, there was a rugby team (maybe even THE rugby team? Again, this is an Idiot's Guide, and I can't be sure) staying at our hotel with us, and signs instructed guests not to approach the players—likely because of COVID, but perhaps due to privacy too.
Why did we choose Miyazaki? Honestly, hotel points. Here's the thing: Japan has amazing ryokans and traditional lodging that my American husband and daughter want no part of. Sleeping on a futon in a tatami room? Potentially sharing common space or toilets with other lodgers? Being treated to a kaiseki meal replete with unrecognizable vegetables and raw fish? While I'm interested in two of those three things (privacy, please) the rest of my family is not. So if there is a Western-style hotel somewhere, specifically a Marriott Bonvoy property, we’re all likely to be more comfortable, and thus happier.
So when we looked on Marriott’s website for places to go in October that were still warm, on a beach, and easy to access via a short plane ride (it was a long-weekend trip), Miyazaki fit the bill.
One of the pools at the Sheraton Grande Ocean Resort; it would have been nice to use it!
The Not-So-Grande Aspects of the Sheraton
The Sheraton Grande Ocean Resort is the sole tower visible from both plane and taxi, sprouting out of Miyazaki’s coastline like a rogue chin hair. It's part of a larger resort area that has tennis, golf, a beach, a park, and a zoo.
In October in Miyazaki, temperatures still hovered over 80 F / 27 C, which is still beach and pool weather to this Midwesterner. The Sheraton Grande boasted three pools, including one indoors, and one outdoor children's pool. My daughter was ready to jump in that pool right away, but signs informed us it was closed "due to COVID." At this point I started to lose my mind a little bit, because the hotel's onsen was open, as was the indoor BUFFET restaurant—and an outdoor pool was closed due to COVID?
This is one example of: is this a typical Japan rule, or post-COVID Japan rule? situations. In mid-June 2022, for example, a friend and I booked rooms at the Tokyo Disneyland hotel. When my friend inquired (prior to the visit, because she's smart) if the pool were open, she was told no, it wasn’t the season yet. This was around the 18th of June, and temperatures were hot and humid. If that wasn’t pool season—when was?
But back to Miyazaki, I suppose it would make sense if the pool were closed for the season, but it seemed a shame given the weather, and the fact that the pool was prominently featured on the website (with no mention of closures). That's on Marriott, I suppose.
Also on Marriott: when we went to take our daughter to the indoor pool instead, we were informed that it was for adults only. Instead of bowing politely and quietly thanking them for this incredibly frustrating news (the Japanese way), I loudly asked them if they enjoyed disappointing children, while pointing to my sobbing daughter (the American Karen way). Actually, I didn't do either of those things, but my reaction was somewhere on that spectrum.
Warming to the Experience
However, there was a silver lining! In the absence of pools, my daughter became interested in onsen, and this trip marked the beginning of her love affair with this spa experience. The hotel has an indoor/outdoor onsen, reached by a pretty winding path. We went at night, and my 4-year-old was initially frightened by the lantern-lit walkway—I forgot she doesn't really wander around outside at night, so it was understandably disorienting. Still, the onsen were family-friendly, split by gender as all traditional baths are, and S— was one of many children, from infants to pre-teens, soaking with their mothers and grandmothers.
The pool at night. The resort has great ambience in the evening as you walk the path toward the onsen.
It felt a little busy, so if that concerns you, the hotel has screens in the lobby that display how busy the onsen are, using a stoplight code: red for heavy traffic, green for light, and yellow and orange between.
At that point, I was about 10 weeks pregnant. A quick Google search revealed that doctors had revised their recommendations in the 2000s, and said pregnant women could use onsen. The biggest risk was slipping and falling on wet surfaces, so I made sure to be careful about that. Not overdoing it and staying hydrated were important too of course, and not just for me. I made sure to keep an eye on my daughter to see how the hot water affected her.
That being said, I rank going to an onsen with your kid as a top life experience. That may seem crazy, since the primary purpose of going to an onsen is to relax, and that's best done alone, when you can close your eyes and shut out the noise of the world. And I try to have a solo onsen experience every family vacation for this reason. But being in the water in a quiet environment can have a calming effect on a high-energy kid too. Sitting in the onsen together, looking up at the stars was a sweet and pure experience. I also want to hold onto these moments when she’s young and fully in her body with no anxieties or hangups about how it looks—hoping that can last as long as possible. And nothing matches her pink glow after we get out, wrapping her up in a robe, and settling her in to sleep after getting back to the room.
Excursions and Activities in Miyazaki
As far as activities go, there seemed to be a lot to keep a family occupied in and near the resort. I wish we’d had time for the zoo, but we opted instead to take the hotel shuttle to nearby Miyazaki Rinkai park and beach. Technically, the shuttle drops you off at a place called the "Cottage" and you have to walk through a wooded path to get there—a walk we enjoyed. I think most of it would be easy to traverse with a stroller too. The wooded path is part of a larger circuit around the Phoenix Segaia resort area, a perk if you're a runner or walker.
The walk to Sunbeach Hitotsuba and Miyazaki Rinkai Park
The beach wasn't much to look at, to be honest, but it was sandy and my daughter enjoyed digging and splashing around there as much as anywhere.
The one excursion we took was to Aoshima Island, which was incredible, and by far my favorite part of the trip. If you have a car it's an easy 30-minutes-plus drive, but we took the train, which took about 90 minutes total--including time from the resort to the train station--and was pretty easy as well as picturesque. It could be worth staying in Aoshima itself, as it had a seaside escape feeling, with small shops and restaurants, a beautiful botanical garden we didn't have time to explore, and a surfer culture—we spotted several people out on the waves, as well as classes on shore.
The island, home to the Aoshima Shrine, is very small and reachable by a bridge. Cute little tuk tuks convey people from the mainland to the shrine for a fee, but were pretty unnecessary in our view, as the walk is a big part of the attraction. An incredible natural rock feature call the "Devil's washboard" leads up to the island, which is fun to explore with kids, especially at low tide. The island and shrine are also beautiful: the heart of Aoshima feels a bit like a jungle, and a rocky coastline that can be followed all the way around.
In the end, I found the visit to Aoshima to be a beautiful and meditative experience. I spent a few moments on the shoreline sitting with my own fresh grief, and it was comforting to be in such a pretty place, near the water.
Dining in Miyazaki and Aoshima
My Japanese friends had said Kyushu has great food, as much of it is grown and produced in the area. Overall I’d classify our food experience on the trip as “pretty good,” which is likely my fault due to poor planning and general ignorance. Miyazaki chicken is one popular dish, whether charcoal grilled (very smoky) or fried and served Namban style, with a type of tartar sauce. We ate both at Tsukada Nojo Nichinan: our one dinner out in the city itself. I booked it because it boasted local cuisine...and I could make a reservation on Google. My Japanese language skills simply can't handle the pressure of a phone call. I can specify a time and how many people, but if the person on the other end were to ask any questions, I would fall apart. But still, the restaurant had great atmosphere and the waitstaff were very welcoming, even volunteering to take our picture at the end.
Dinner out in Miyazaki
I mentioned that the beach in Miyazaki wasn’t anything special, but there was one highlight (for the adults, at least): The Beach Burger House, a charming, white-washed California style diner serving burgers, fries, and pancakes. This meant my daughter ate well—not always an easy feat. The burgers were great, and the atmosphere was casual and fun: nothing beats eating simple food on the beach when the weather is sunny and perfect.
The Beach Burger House
The bulk of our meals were eaten at the resort because it was pretty far removed from downtown. Bus lines are available, but we weren't about to mess with them with a small child and luggage and first trimester (aka constantly nauseated) me. Also, though it seems taxis are lined up that you can just take, you should reserve ahead of time with guest services. This was another confusing cultural/ignorance/language-barrier moment: the night we were heading out to dinner, several taxis were sitting at the entrance, empty, but we were told they were reserved.
Meals at the hotel I mostly don't really recall; it was the typical breakfast-and-dinner buffet situation. Even then, you still need a reservation for dinner, so we ended up getting room service the first night because we hadn't made a reservation in advance. N— had the charcoal chicken (again) and it was pretty smoky tasting—which is the point, I suppose.
In Aoshima we had lunch at Upper Yard 青島店—yes, another hamburger place! But in fairness to us, it also had tacos, which we ordered instead. The food was good and once again kid-friendly, and we were able to walk in at lunch without a reservation, no problem.
The Verdict
In the end, would I recommend Miyazaki? Sure, if you a lot of time to spend in Japan and want to plan a few-day getaway. There is definitely more to explore in Kyushu for better informed and more adventurous travelers, including Takachiho Gorge. It would be a two-hour trip from the Sheraton by car, and about twice that by public transit, which I was not about to attempt with a small child and my severe nausea.
The Sheraton was a bit uneven; I'd recommend doing as I say and not as I did, and check which amenities will be available ahead of time and weigh their importance to you. The hotel has an excursion center that could help you plan even more adventures, as well as other dining options that seemed best for adults only (and with prior reservations).
